12 night Rajasthan-India Itinerary
By Jen / January 22, 2021
Finding myself in India was quite a surprise! India had been in the back of my head because of Yoga but it wasn’t high in my mindset of future travel destinations. I wasn’t even close to this level of travel yet, to tell the truth.
Then I read the book Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts. Have you ever read a book that takes you outside your head completely? Looking forward to every moment you can spend reading? This is how I found myself in India. I read Shantaram in the pool escaping the South Carolina August heat. I was so sad when I finished. It felt like, now what do I do??
Apparently, it meant now I was going to India. Obviously something strong was ignited as I found myself looking at Pinterest pictures of traveling India. This is how ideas take form and become reality. Such a simple act like making a Pinterest page actually created movement for me.
One night after a couple of glasses of wine I texted a friend who I knew loved to travel and had the freedom to do so. I asked him if he was up for India? He said yes! Off we went 3 and a half months later…..
Making India Happen
Planning for this trip was FUN!
And a little daunting. I had no idea where to start. India is huge!! It would be like someone who has never been to the USA, knows very little about the country, and is trying to figure out where to go for 3 weeks. So many choices, right? You can do cities, quaint towns, outdoorsy adventures, mountains, beaches etc….this is what it was like trying to plan for 3 weeks in India. Decisions, decisions, decisions!
In the end, I decided to stick to 2 main regions. Rajasthan and Goa with a couple of days in Mumbai in the middle. The majority of the time being spent in Rajasthan because it has the quintessential first time to India experiences. Such as Delhi, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Udaipur, and the Taj Mahal. It’s a load of goods and a perfect first time to India region.
Budget Expectations for India
I would describe this trip as “upper budget”. We were comfortable but not riding high-style either.
For some reason, I had it in my mind that India would be incredibly inexpensive and I would be getting a lot for my money. In some cases, this was true, in others not so much. You can still spend money here for sure! I had no specific budget to follow on this trip but I also needed to do it cheaply. I didn’t have a lot of time to save money.
We had a mixture of budget and splurges in terms of transportation and also accommodations. We stayed in a guesthouse that was $13 per night and we stayed in a bungalow on the beach with was $80 per night. It really runs the gamut and also depends highly where you are. I can tell you, it’s not as cheap as you think.
Once in India the daily living expenses, if you aren’t doing any major excursions, are very inexpensive. Your international flight, getting around the country, and accommodations are where you will spend your money.
12 night route for Rajasthan, India
This is our route and a really excellent way to spend 12 nights in Rajasthan. It will give you a good beginner India base to follow. It’s a first glimpse of this exciting country. We were moving around quickly. There is so much more to explore and I know I couldn’t see everything. Guess I’ll just have to go back!
Gurudwara Bangla Sahib-Delhi
Day 1-Arrival in Delhi
You likely will initially fly into Delhi. To my knowledge from the USA, there is no other option. At least at the time I booked you have to enter the country in Delhi and move on from there. There were no direct flights from the USA to Mumbai for example. I chose Delhi as a jumping-off point for other destinations so we had one short night here. After your long flight, make your way to your hotel to get cleaned up for your first Indian meal. We enjoyed dinner at Bukhara Restaurant, famous for its Dahl and Naan bread. It is a fancy restaurant and rather than head right for street food was nice easing into Indian food. After dinner, visit the Sikh place of worship Gurudwara Bangla Sahib all light up at night. Sample Chai tea made for anyone and everyone who wants to visit.
This is a peaceful place. One that hopefully will set you up for a good sleep because you are in for an AMAZING adventure to come.
*We stayed in a small boutique hotel that fit our needs perfectly called Zaza Stay. It was about 45 minutes in traffic from the airport and another 20-minute tuk-tuk to our dinner. I booked this hotel mainly because it is very close to the train station for our bright and early departure the next morning to Jaipur. Super convenient!
https://www.booking.com/hotel/in/zaza-stay.html
Day 2-Jaipur
Rise early and make your way to the train station and begin your 3-hour journey to Jaipur. After lunch spend the afternoon in a tuk-tuk partaking in the street life of Jaipur. Visit the Jal Mahal (Water Palace) and walk around the many markets and Bazaars. Take it all in! I promise you will have fun just riding in a tuk-tuk and marveling at the chaos and amazement of India. Lastly, head up to the Sun Temple for a view of all of Jaipur as the sun descends to end your first full day. You are here!
*Look no further! We stayed at the most adorable property, the Hotel Pearl Palace. And, it’s very well priced. To boot the restaurant was fabulous!!!! We had at least 1 meal a day here. The link is super long so I will spare you but you can find them on Booking.com or TripAdvisor.
Day 3-Jaipur
Take your time waking up in the morning making sure to beat any lingering jet lag. Have a leisurely breakfast. You deserve a sleep in and lazy morning. Spend the late morning and afternoon visiting the City Palace, Jantar Mantar, and the Hawa Mahal. There will be plenty of free time the rest of the day to see Jaipur as you please. You won’t get bored that is for sure!
Day 4-Jaipur/Taj Mahal
Today your private driver will meet you before the sunrise for your day trip to the Taj Mahal. You can ask the hotel for assistance in finding a driver. We did not book in advance and had no trouble. It was about $100 for 2 of us for the day. The car was a nice air-conditioned Toyota and our driver took care of us. It is about a 4-hour drive each way so be prepared for a long day. Once you arrive stand in Awe of her!! I think 3-4 hours in Agra will be sufficient to see both the Taj Mahal and the Agra Fort with lunch in between. The Fort has incredible views of the Taj from a different vantage point. You will be tired when you get home. Don’t plan for anything major that night. Think bed and room service. It’s a long day.
Day 5-Jaipur/Overnight train to Jaisalmer
On your last day in Jaipur head out of town a bit to visit the Amber Fort. The Fort itself is empty. But, it’s immense and still stunning. I’d suggest hiring a private guide to share more about the history and after getting you off the beaten Jaipur path. Maybe go jewelry shopping? Jaipur is known for shopping handicrafts, jewelry, carpets, clothing, and fabric. There is plenty more to see and do depending on your taste and energy level. Late afternoon head back to your hotel and freshen up. Your hotel can hang onto your bag until your overnight train late tonight. While you wait, check out an early evening movie at the famous Art Deco theater the Raj Mandir. Seeing a movie in India is really fun. The crowd participates by singing and dancing. Our movie was in Hindi without subtitles. Not too sure what happened but it’s a wonderful way to pass the time until your train departs!
Day 6-Jaisalmer
Your overnight train will arrive early in the morning so you have all day to explore this picturesque walled city. See the people and shops, watch the sunset, have dinner with a view. You will find plenty of tuk-tuk drivers happily waiting to take you around town. Hiring a tuk-tuk is a nice way to get out of the Old Town and see all the Jaisalmer sites. No real agenda today. Just relax and enjoy the town.
Click here for more deets on how to explore The Golden City of Jaisalmer.
*We stayed at the Surya Paying Guesthouse right within the Old City. This is a budget option. Our room was $12 per night. You get what you pay for. On the upside, this property had a lot of charm. And, the best views from the restaurant. If you are on a budget and don’t mind basic and are in Jaisalmer for 1 or 2 nights only, I could recommend it for you.
https://www.booking.com/hotel/in/the-surya-paying-guest-house-jaisalmer.html
Day 7-Jaisalmer
Today your getting out into the desert. I’d originally planned to ride camels. Once, I saw how that worked I did not feel good about it. Plus, I ended up getting sick so we took a Jeep home early as the sunset. I am SO GLAD I got sick. By far, this was my favorite moment of the entire time I spent in India. Driving in that Jeep as the sunset. What a Moment! I will always remember that and felt so happy! I’d recommend booking a private Jeep tour and time it to drive home as the sun is setting. You won’t forget it!
Day 8-Jodhpur
Today is another travel day. Get an early start for your 5-hour train journey to Jodhpur. Once you have made it to the Blue City find a lunch spot and spend the afternoon at the Mehrangarh Fort. I’d recommend to purchase the museum audio guide and learn about its interesting history and more on the local culture. Tonight find a restaurant overlooking the fort all light up!
*Unfortunately we had a hotel snafu and I can’t recommend where we stayed. I will suggest splurging here if you can. Jodhpur streets can be fairly chaotic. And, this is a magical city that is made extra special with a unique stay. Plus, by this time you might be getting a little travel tired. A slow down will be good for your energy.
Day 9-Jodhpur
Take your coffee or tea this morning at a coffee shop near the Clocktower and people watch the daily market. It is so interesting to see the beautiful sari’s the ladies wear and people going about a typical day in India. So unlike anything in America. It’s senses overload!
If you like to cook this is the place to buy Saffron at a fraction of the cost at home. Some shops will do an actual saffron test for you and make sure it is truly saffron. This is a thing here. Saffron is a great gift to bring home and is so tiny it won’t take up any extra room in your bag.
Market near Clocktower
Next, take a tuk-tuk to the Umaid Bhawan Palace. This is a hotel and palace. The royal family still lives here. There is a small museum to visit but the majority of the grounds can only be accessed if you are a guest of the hotel. It’s still fun to see the grounds and not a long activity.
On your way back into town stop at Toorji’s step-well. It’s a great photo-op. Finally to finish the day wander the streets of the Blue City. If you want the maximum experience take a tour. If you want to get lost on your own there are entrances near the Clocktower. This is why you came to Jodhpur! Make sure your camera battery is full!
Click here for more deets on how to explore The Blue City of Jodhpur.
Stopping at Ranakpur-Jain Temple
Day 10-Udaipur
This morning your second hired driver will take you the 5 hours to Udaipur and will stop off at Ranakpur on the way. A most spectacular Jain temple. This is a really good use of your time to see this temple but also the countryside. Early in the evening, you will arrive at the adorable tourist town of Udaipur. Like Jaisalmer but unlike Jodhpur, this city caters to tourism. There is plenty of shopping, spas, activities, and restaurants around town. Except for maybe the Taj Lake Palace Hotel and a boat ride on Lake Pichola, I wouldn’t say there is one major thing to do in Udaipur. The beauty is just being here.
*We stayed at the Mehwar Haveli. This is a nice budget option with views, small rooms, and is centrally located.
https://www.booking.com/hotel/in/mewar-haveli-traditional.html
Day 11-Udaipur
Unfortunately, I got sick (again) my first night in Udaipur and it put me out for the rest of my time here. What a bummer! So, I can’t personally speak to everything in this city.
But, it was very cute, very touristy and from what I saw would be a great place to book a hotel with a pool, spend time taking in the lake views and get some relaxation. Udaipur would also be a prime spot for solo female travelers. Especially first-timers to India. It’s got major hippie vibes and there is a ton of yoga, spa’s, shopping, coffee shops, henna artists, and waterfront restaurants.
Day 12-Udaipur
It’s your last day in Udaipur. Hop on a tuk-tuk and venture out of town to visit the Moonsoon Palace and take in the views of Udaipur. Fun fact: for those of you a certain age the 1983 James Bond movie Octopussy was filmed here. There is Octopussy memorabilia all around town. They are still taking full advantage. The Moonsoon Palace is where the villain Kamal Khan lived and they did film scenes here. I mentioned there are many many spa options in Udaipur. A great option for a spa day today!
Getting Henna in Udaipur
And that is your 12 nights in Rajashtan. (For my full India itinerary we took a flight to Mumbai from Udaipur for 2 nights and then made our way to Goa to end the trip. It’s a nice route and a full 24 nights in India). This was an amazing adventure. Truth be told it was a little hard sometimes. Especially dealing with sickness. I had done a lot of traveling before India but never any destinations where you feel true culture shock. I suppose I jumped right in with India, right? I can tell you this 100% prepared me to travel alone in Southeast Asia. I am positive this trip gave me the confidence to travel almost anywhere.
Tips on how to explore Rajasthan & what I would do different:
Hire a guide for Jaipur for at least one day to get off the tourist trail and learn a little more about the city. This is when special things happen.
Do Not Skip the Taj Mahal. It is worth it.
Udaipur is a really cute city. Don’t plan full days with a lot of activities. Enjoy yourself doing nothing. Again, book a hotel with a pool.
Give places a chance, they may surprise you. Jodhpur was so chaotic when we arrived and the hotel I booked was not suitable and we had to move. I wanted to leave that day and for a moment we discussed this. We stayed and in the end, this turned out to be one of my favorite experiences in India. Jodhpur is a must-see.
If you can find properties with rooftop bars, restaurants, and/or pools book those. That would be ideal. It’s nice to have a view in the evening and still be “home”.
A day trip to the Taj Mahal and spending a little extra for a private driver worked out really well for us. I would think a hotel near the Taj Mahal with views would be amazing. If you want to arrive at sunrise or see the sunset at the Taj Mahal that would also be a super special experience and you will need to stay in Agra for that. Otherwise, a day trip is just fine too.
We didn’t book any of our private drivers beforehand. The hotels took care of this for us and we never had a problem. It’s a nice way to see the country as well.
I don’t believe flying between any of these cities is a realistic option. Figure out the train schedule and book in advance if you want to ensure you have 1st or 2nd class train cars. Especially for longer journeys.
Carry small bills and candy to give to the kids you meet along the way.
Make friends.
Don’t sweat the small stuff. It’s India and part of the story.
Book a Jeep tour in Jaisalmer and spend time in the Thar Desert. No excuses!
Having a little more time in Delhi would have been great. Next time……
And there you have it! I hope you all enjoyed amazing and crazy India!! Go! Do it! What’s stopping you?
